Notes from Spiti- Loving the Traffic Jams

 

Shepherds in Spiti

A shepherd checks his flock

Spiti is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Rugged vertical mountains kissing azure skies are punctuated by Orche colored monasteries on cliffs where even Spiderman will think twice to go. This desolate landscape that literally means the middle land makes you wonder who would have built these monasteries’ on these hills, from where they got the engineering skills, how do they survive in winters when the whole valley in under many feet of snow.

sheep in spiti valley

Sheep and Shepherds:  A traffic jam I loved

Yet people have lived in Spiti for thousands of years and not only thrived they have developed their unique culture, way of life, food, agriculture etc.

One of the main sources of livelihood of Spiti residents is agriculture, but at this height only 2 crops grow that make the toil viable –sweet pea and barley. As land or should I say arable land is scarce and water in this cold desert is even more scarce, not because it is not available, but because it is not available in a form or place from where it can reach fields a lot of residents also indulge in rearing sheep and cattle.

Besides sheep and goat, cows, horses and mules are till kept in homes to act as beast of burden.

Sheep in Spiti

 Goats near Dhankar Lake

Dhankar lake

Dhankar Lake Spiti

 

Most roads in Spiti are still mars vintage and need to be repaired every year after heavy snow leading to erosion. Traffic is sparse and you can drive for hours without meeting another vehicle only some horses or shepherds passing you.

While traveling to Kaza and a few times to villages in Spiti we were caught in traffic jams that were caused not by honking cars or trucks but by Sheep and goats leisurely crossing the road to go to the other side.

Roads in Spiti

No, NOT Mars, This Road Goes To Spiti

 

One of the most memorable experiences I had with critters in Spiti was at Dhankar Lake when we were trying to get some shade under boulders as there are no trees, when a herd of sheep descended from the nearby mountain and started drinking water from the lake. Once they had their fill they spread around on the lake bed munching on the shrubs growing around.

The other image that I will never forget is when I was coming back from a trek to Chandratal and exhausted just settled on grass looking at the blue sky above me.  Soon I was approached by a horse who was trying to investigate what is wrong with me.

spiti horses

Horses near Chandratal Spiti

 

As I moved scared of the horse, the horse also moved away scared of me,  and I happily clicked these horses for hours till the rest of the group returned and found me instead of exhausted happily clicking horses around me.

The horses continued to mesmerize me and later even at our camping site I found some of the horses and mules that carried the tents and other supplies happily grazing around the tents giving a perfect opportunity to click them in surreal surroundings.

Chandratal Horses

Campsite at Chandratal in Spiti

 

Have you been to Spiti ? Well if not I highly suggest you visit this pristine land with landscape that will make you believe you are in a sci fi movie on another planet, only you will be just 12 hours away from the Tourist heaven of Manali in Himachal Pradesh.

Darter Photography conducts mentored photography tours to Spiti, check here for more details about Heart of Himalayas- Photography Tour to Spiti

About the Author

Prasad Np

Prasad Np is a travel writer and photographer who blogs at desi Traveler. He serves as Chief Evangelist of Darter Photography

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