In this Guest Post, Suchismita Sahu shares her experiences and photographs from Darter Photography’s Trail of the Grey Ghost – Wildlife Photography Tour of Spiti in Winter in March 2017.
Down Jacket- checked, Gloves – checked, Cap – Checked, Scarf – Checked, Woollen socks – Checked, Snow boots – checked, Sunglasses – checked, Camera battery – checked , Empty SD and CF cards – checked, Camera setting – checked. My first on-foot experience of Himalaya’s at 4200 mt altitude was about to begin. I needed to be doubly sure of everything, as I tend to forget the things if I am bit over-excited or over-apprehensive. At that point of time, I was both. Snow Leopard was not in my mind as it was just our first day in Spiti, with 6 days of exploration in front of us. So I pulled up my Jacket, tied the snow boot laces and put on cap and gloves – all set!
After crossing Kibber village, we came to a stiff downhill slope with knee-deep snow. I never thought my first walk in the snow will be so extreme. My first foot on the snow and my first step in Himalayan gave me a spark in my heart. I was completely wobbling and fell down a couple of times to experience the soft and squishy feel of the snow. Seeing my condition LaraJi, our guide, came to my aid. With his help I glided through the snow and enjoyed it, though I was completely out of breath.
We reached to a snow-filled road where we waited for DorjeJi, our scanner. And we soon saw him coming towards us bit upset. We were late, and he had seen fresh pugmarks in that area. But he also understood well that this was our first day in that high altitude and we need some time to get acclimatized.
Then he went further on to scan, and we got some time to catch our much needed breath. I was completely overwhelmed with the beauty and harshness of the mountains that surrounded me. I followed the group heading ahead on the same snow filled road. Suddenly, we saw DorjeJi giving a strong sign from the opposite side.
My heart skipped a beat. I walked fast with as much strength as I could muster. I never reached that level of endurance, not even with my toughest run. When I reached the point where everyone else was clicking away frantically and I saw where they were pointing out. Rocks and Rocks everywhere. Some were snow-capped and some bare. Then, suddenly, my heart stopped beating. The grey ghost sleeping on the caved rock, curled around and having a peaceful winter morning slumber!
I was in no position to even lift my camera. I didn’t want to let this moment of sheer pleasure pass behind my camera and lens. I just wanted to watch it. I’m not sure when tears started rolling out of my eyes.
Slowly the Snow Leopard got up and started to move, bringing us back to our senses. The spark of joy spread across the group.
Then again DorjeJi started to call us from another ridge. We moved hurriedly towards that ridge. I was struggling due to my breathlessness. But the moment I got there, it felt as if the Snow Leopard was waiting for me.
As if it was waiting for us to show what cat-walk meant in the truest sense, casting its spell with every move. Top models on the ramp could learn a thing or two from this majestic cat.
Every step showed its familiarity with the territory. This is the kingdom of the Snow Leopard indeed. And the occasional glances at us told us that we were accepted in its gracious hospitality.
The strength, the vigour and the control was quite visible from the paw he stretches to take every step. How carefully nature had crafted this enigmatic creation.
And, just like that, it disappeared around a corner. Just like a ghost!
That day, I fulfilled the top-most item on my wishlist. Few days before the trip began, I wasn’t too sure if the Ghost would oblige with its presence. I came back home but a bigger chunk of me is still lying somewhere in those snowy mountains. But, I brought back these stolen moments from the time. Everyday life is a slave of time but these moments are truly liberating.
Of course, with the hangover of this sighting still fresh, we got to see another Snow Leopard the following day! And spent the entire day watching it do what a cat does best – nap!
And we still enjoyed its company sitting in knee-deep snow with temperatures way below freezing point. But there wasn’t a single moment of dullness and our eyes stayed glued to it. What do u call it?? Totally bewitched, isn’t it??
As a traveller, explorer, and a passionate photographer, nature has always attracted me. People around me get amused by how I can love snakes, amphibians and lizards (which they find creepy). I don’t find anything creepy or scary within nature’s creation. I strongly believe that you can have everything that you really want. At present, confused between corporate excellence and love for nature, I look forward to exploring the high altitude of the mountains, the beautiful world concealed within the ocean and the deeper aspects of rainforest. Follow my journey on my Instagram profile – https://www.instagram.com/sahusuchismita/ – to view my latest photographs.
Snow Leopard Photography Tours – Darter Photography organizes wildlife photography tours to Ladakh and Spiti in winter, focused around Snow Leopard habitats. Please visit our tour pages – Snow Leopard of Ladakh and Trail of the Grey Ghost in Spiti– for more details.
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