Theyyam: when the gods come down…

A look into the visually rich and photogenic Theyyams of Kannur.

Theyyams are oracles in popular tradition, commonly found around Kannur and Kasagod towns in South India. During winter months, it’s common to see thin crowds gathered respectfully in temples, surrounding a fiercely attired Theyyam performer dancing to the sound of drums.

Theyyam

There are a hundreds of variety in Theyyams, and each type comes with its own story, legens and background. Our travel photographer Manish Lakhani lists a few of his rendezvous with Theyyams of Kannur. Manish also leads our popular ‘Theyyams of Kannu Photography Tour’. Join us on the next edition of the tour to watch Theyam performances and photograph them. Visit Theyyams of Kannu Photography Tour for more information.

Text and photographs by Manish Lakhani.

Before we begin, here is an interesting information on how a Theyyam gets into trance and becomes God. This happens with a ritual called Mukhadarshanam, literally translated as ‘seeing the face’.

No, the Theyyam performer is not looking at the mirror to adjust his colourful makeup or head-dress. By staring into his own face for a while, the deity is invoked and the artist is transformed into a Theyyam. When he looks into the mirror, his eyes do not meet to his own but of God.

Theyyam

A Theyyam performer during Mukhadarshanam.

Kuttichathan Theyyam

Kuttichathan is one of the many types of Theyyams in existence. Here is the story that goes behind it: Once, Lord Shiva and Parvathi decided to stay in a very remote hill village with a community called Valluvar. Shiva had two children with Valluvathi, named Karuval and Kuttichathan. Kuttichathan was born in a peculiar manner with a flower on his forehead, a third divine eye and a black body with long white stripes.

Theyyam

A Kuttichathan Theyyam.

In Valluvar lived a Kalakadu Namboothiri and his wife. They did not have children decided to worship Lord Shiva, asking for a child. Shiva donated the second child of Valluvathi to the couple.

Kuttichathan was a difficult child. He beheaded the cows and drank their blood to quench his thirst. Namboothiris could not bear this, and ended up killing the child. But even after the child’s death, they could hear the sound of him reverberating inside their house. To get rid of these disturbances, they conducted certain kind fire-poojas by creating a fire pit. But from this fire pit, they could see Kuttichathans emerging! Subsequently, a sacred grove was created in this land and people began performing Theyyam for Kuttichathan.

Kathivanur Veeran Theyyam

Kathivanur Veeran is one of the significant hero Theyyam of Kolathnad (region around Kannur). Kathivanur Veeran was the only son of Methalai Illathu Kumarachan and Parakka Illathu Chakkiamma. He was born with the grace of goddess Chuzhali Bhagavathi and as he grew up, he excelled in the martial art form of Kalari. But, much to the disappointment of his father, he would spend all his time playing with bow & arrow and would refuse to do any work.

Theyyam

A Kathivanur Veeran Theyyam.

One day, Veeran’s father warned his mother to not provide him any food until he gets some work done. But the mother couldn’t stop herself from feeding the hungry child, and the angry father expelled Veeran from the house. Veeran left home on a long journey north to Kodagu.

In Kodagu, Veeran met his uncle at Kathivanur Village and took shelter in his house. Here, he met a girl, Chemmarathi, from a place called Velarkot and decided to marry her and finally settled in her place. They led a a happy life in the beginning, until tragedy struck. Their village was invaded by brigands from Mutharmuti. As a man who was trained to fight, Veeran resisted the invaders with an iron rod and finally defeated them. Unfortunately, his golden ring was lost in the struggle. He considered it shameful for a hero like him, and returned to the field in search of his ring. Suddenly, enemies fell upon him and cut him into pieces with swords.
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Chemmarathi got the tragic news of her husband and rushed to the battle field. She fought bravely and defeated the perpetrators. Finally, she collected the fragments of her husband’s body, arranged a funeral pyre and leaped into the pyre. The spirit of Kativanur Veeran was worshiped in a shrine and Theyyams were pefromed in his name.

Muchilot Bhagavathi

This is the story of a beautiful girl who was born in Brahmin caste in Perinjallur. Se was expelled from the caste since she used to talk about love and desires. Being alone and isolated, she wandered until she reached Karivellur Shiva Temple, and later to Dhayaramangalathu Temple. She decided to end her life after the prayer at the temple. A young man named Vaniya was on his way to the temple to offer oil. She requested him to pour oil into the fire, and subsequently jumped into the fire and died.

Theyyam

A Muchilot Bhagavathi Theyyam

Vaniya returned home, and found his empty bottle filled with oil to the brim. When he went to the well in his house to fetch water, he could see the face of the same girl reflecting as a Goddess. Since these miracles happened in the Muchilot Vaniyans, they named the Goddess Muchilot Bhagavathi.

Also: Join us on a mentored photography tour led by Manish to witness and photograph these and other visuall spectacular Theyyam performances. See more details: Theyyams of Kannu Photography Tour

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